February started here with a steady snowfall. The falling flakes seemed like a sign that I should stay inside and cook something warm and comforting. A beef, barley and vegetable soup simmering on the stove was the answer.

This recipe was among the first published in a column written by Richard Sax and Marie Simmons called “Cooking Healthy” that Bon Appétit ran for several years. The initial article, published in January 1989, focused on “Light Meat Dishes” that used various cuts of red meat sparingly but delivered lots of flavor. Sax and Simmons offered a recipe for Hearty Lamb, Mushroom, and Barley Soup, which I have adapted here, first by using beef instead of lamb. I also added extra vegetables, more barley, and changed the cooking technique slightly.

Building a base of flavor

Just a small amount of meat is required for the soup. First I first trimmed the fat from the beef and cut it into small pieces. Next I sautéed the pieces of beef in a bit of olive oil to create a base of flavor and ensure that the meat was brown instead of gray in the finished dish. When the beef was browned, I transferred it to a bowl.

raw beef cut into small cubes — Trim the fat and cut the beef into small pieces.

Sautéed beef in pan — Sauté until the pieces are browned.

Then I sautéed onions and garlic, scraping up browned bits left over from the beef, until these aromatics were golden brown.

I then added celery, carrots, and parsnips to the sauté before putting in chopped mushrooms.

chopped celery, carrots, and parsnips — Celery, carrots, and parsnips.

vegetables sauté for soup base — Added to the onion mixture, the veggies cook briefly.

sliced and chopped mushrooms — Chopped mushrooms will be added to the vegetable sauté.

soup mixture in pot — The beef is returned to the pot, along with broth, water, bay leaf and thyme.

Adding vegetables in stages

Sax and Simmons recommended holding back a portion of the mushrooms in slices to be added towards the end of cooking, and I agreed with this approach. While the chopped mushrooms contribute a full-flavored taste to the broth, the sliced mushrooms create an appealing appearance and texture to the finished soup. After getting the initial meat and vegetable sauté completed, the soup simmers on its own and doesn’t need much attention.

I liked that this recipe called for the addition of sliced cabbage near the end. Although I’ve made beef and barley soups frequently in the past, I had never used cabbage as an ingredient. It contributes a subtle crunch, good flavor, and the benefit of extra nutrients. A sprinkle of fresh parsley right before serving gives the soup a bit of color.

We enjoyed our beef, barley and vegetable soup with a warm baguette, some cheese, and pears. While the snow was still falling, we were snug and cozy with our comforting supper.